Carpet is made through a process
called “tufting”. The yarn is stitched through
a backing material by gigantic sewing machines with hundreds of rows of sewing
needles, creating thousands of tufts made of “looped” yarn.
The backing material is then coated with an adhesive
or latex to lock the tufts in place.
There are many
different styles, colours and textures of carpet
to choose from, each creating a different feel
in the home, and conveying a different message
about the homeowner’s personal style. The Design
Consultant’s
job is to help the homeowner select the carpet
that is right for them.
Cut or twist pile carpet, the most popular
style of carpet in the residential market, is available
in a number of different styles.
Saxony, sometimes referred to
as “Plush”,
is noted for its luxurious elegance and soft, dense
carpet pile and is available in a wide array of solid
hues.
“Nap” refers to the direction in which the
tufts of yarn lay. If the nap runs in one direction,
as it does with Saxony carpet, light reflects the
same off each tuft. If you change the direction
of “some” tufts
(by walking on the carpet, for example), light
will reflect differently off that section of the
carpet, creating a mark. That’s why Saxony carpet
tends to show footprints and vacuum cleaner marks.
The yarn used to make textured
carpet is steamed, causing the yarn to curl. As a
result, the tufts face in different directions, creating
the appearance of multi-coloured yarn and producing
a “textured” look.
In addition, because the tufts already face in
different directions, walking on the tufts does
NOT create a visible path. That’s why textured
carpet is less likely than Saxony to show footprints
or vacuum cleaner marks.
Multi-level
loop carpets are harder to clean than level loop
carpets because the soil tends to migrate to the
lower loops.
Cut and Loop Carpet
(“Patterned”)
Patterned carpets blend cuts and
loops in varying heights for dramatic, unique patterns,
ranging from floral to geometric designs. The shading
created by the variety of heights and/or textures
also helps to hide dirt.
Patterned carpets can also
be created using multi-level loops or printing a
design directly onto the carpet for a stylish, often
dramatic look.
Buyer’s Tip: Berber and
Patterned carpets tend to show seams more than
Saxony, Textured or Frieze.
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CARPET CONSTRUCTION
How well a carpet will “perform” (e.g.,
stand up to regular wear and tear, including daily
traffic, spills and pets) is determined primarily
by:
- Fibre - The material used to make yarn (and
how it is treated to fight stains);
- Construction – How
the carpet is made (Twist, Gauge Rate, Density,
etc.);
- Backing – The material through
which the yarn is sewn; and
- Underlay – The underlay installed
under a new carpet, which can make a big difference
in the look, feel and wear of your carpet.
Carpet
Fibre
The type of carpet fibre, along with the method
by which the fibre is turned into yarn, significantly
impacts both the price and performance of a carpet.
Carpet
fibre is turned into yarn using one of two common
methods: Staple or Bulk Continuous Filament
(BCF).
Staple is a short strand of fibre (usually
around 6 inches long) that is twisted together with
other similar pieces of fibre to create a tuft of
yarn. BCF is one long continuous strand of fibre
that is used to create the yarn.
Because carpets made
with staple fibre use many small pieces of fibre,
they tend to shed, or “pill”,
significantly more than carpets made with BCF.
As more fibre comes off the carpet’s surface over
time (through foot traffic, vacuuming, etc.), the
carpet literally “wears” away.
Better quality carpets are typically made with
BCF. The only benefit of staple fibre is its lower
cost, which is why lesser quality carpets are often
made with staple fibres.
Carpet fibre represents
about 75% of the cost of making carpet, so it has
a significant impact on carpet price. But the type
of fiber also impacts how the carpet will perform
in the home.
Most carpet today is manufactured from
synthetic, or man-made, fibres, such as olefin, polyester
or nylon. Each fibre has different performance
characteristics affecting the look, feel and performance
of the carpet.
Olefin (Polypropylene) is a relatively
inexpensive synthetic fibre that is extremely resistant
to stains and moisture.
Olefin is a solution-dyed fibre,
which means the colour is added during the production
process rather than after the yarn is produced. The
colour is in the fiber through and through, not just
on the surface. Think of solution-dyed fibre like
a carrot: when you slice it, it’s orange
all the way through. Fibres dyed through more traditional
topical applications are like radishes: red on
the outside, but white on the inside.
More importantly,
the colour is “locked-in” and
only extreme heat will cause the dye sites to reopen.
This makes olefin and other solution-dyed fibres “colorfast” (e.g.
highly resistant to staining and fading).
While
it is relatively inexpensive, there are some disadvantages to
olefin:
Olefin is NOT “resilient”
- If you step on cut
pile carpet made from olefin, it crushes and
mattes (i.e., doesn’t return to
its original position). This lack of “cellular
memory” explains
why cut pile carpets are NOT made from olefin.
- The
natural shape of a loop pile carpet, however,
creates added stability that makes up for any
lack of “cellular
memory” in
the yarn. Consequently, loop carpets CAN be made
from olefin.
Because it is solution-dyed, Olefin
can NOT be made in bolder, vibrant colours.
- This
is not generally an issue because customers tend
to prefer neutral coloured berbers.
Olefin tends
to have an oily residue on its surface.
- When
dirt comes into contact with olefin, it adheres
to the yarn, accumulating over time and causing
the carpet to appear soiled.
Olefin’s low cost,
combined with its increased stability when made
in “loop” form
and its resistance to stains and fading, make it
the fibre of choice for less expensive Berbers
(as well as for the majority of commercial carpets).
Polyester is the
most widely used fibre for residential carpets.
Polyester
offers a number of benefits:
- More resilient than
olefin (so it can be used to make cut pile carpet);
- Can
be made in bright, rich colours (unlike olefin,
which can only be made in lighter, more neutral
colours);
- Available in specialized fibres offering
increased softness;
- Highly resistant to staining
and fading; and
- More affordable than nylon.
Polyester fibre is
dyed after the yarn is extruded. Because of the
chemical structure of polyester fibre, a tremendous
amount of heat is required to open the dye sites.
This characteristic makes polyester inherently
resistant to fading and highly stain resistant,
even to water-soluble stains (because, unless extreme
heat is applied to the carpet fibre, the dye sites
remain closed, blocking the staining agents from
getting in).
Buyer’s Tip: There is a wide
range of polyester fibres used to make carpet,
from staple polyester to bulk continuous filament
polyester made from virgin polyester to premium
polyester made with advanced engineering to increase
softness and durability. The differences impact
both price AND performance. Make sure you know
which polyester you are buying.
Nylon is the most expensive synthetic
fibre. It is an incredibly soft, durable and resilient
fibre. Combined with its ability to hide soil and
stains, nylon is the ideal fibre for carpet used
in the most highly trafficked areas.
The benefits
of nylon can be summarized as follows:
- Softer to
the touch than other synthetic fibres;
- More
resilient than polyester and olefin, so it springs
back under traffic;
- More resistant to wear and
traffic, so it retains its original appearance
longer;
- Treated to resist stains and soiling
better than other fibres;
- Available in a wide
array of colors and resists fading in sunlight;
and
- More affordable than wool.
Special, branded nylon
fibres have been developed, using state-of-the-art
technology in chemistry and engineering to produce
softer, yet more durable and stain resistant fibres.
Branded fibres, such as Dupont’s
STAINMASTER Tactesse Nylon, have the added benefit
of quality assurance: they are manufactured to
strict parameters and subjected to specialized
testing.
Although nylon is not inherently stain
resistant like polyester, nylon can be solution-dyed,
a process that makes the fibre as stain resistant
as polyester. And because nylon does not have an
oily-residue, dirt does not adhere to nylon the
way it adheres to olefin.
As described above, solution-dyed
fibres can not be made in bold, bright colours. However,
there are nylon fibres which are NOT solution-dyed,
such as STAINMASTER Tactesse Nylon. These nylons
CAN be made in vibrant, bold colours. Since nylon
is not naturally stain resistant, nylon fibres that
are not solution-dyed must be treated with a topical
stain treatment, such as STAINMASTER.
Buyer’s Tip:
Not all stain treatments are equal. Lesser quality
carpets use generic treatments that wear off after
only a few cleanings. Even Scotch Guard, a recognized
brand, wears off relatively quickly. It’s best
to go with a carpet fibre that is inherently stain
resistant or treated with a premium applicant,
like STAINMASTER, which does not wear off.
Wool
Wool is the pre-eminent natural fibre
used to make carpet, noted for its luxurious appearance,
natural softness and high performance (e.g., natural
resilience, good texture retention and good resistance
to soil).
Wool is shorn from sheep and the natural
shape of wool fibre keeps dust and dirt near the
surface of the carpet pile, making it easier to clean.
However, wool is not naturally stain resistant
(although stain treatment can be applied).
On the
downside, carpets made from wool are significantly
more expensive than carpets made from synthetic
fibres, which explains why wool carpets account
for less than 1% of the total market.
Carpet Construction
In addition to the “type” of
fibre used to make the yarn, carpet performance
(or how well a carpet will wear and how long it
will last) also depends on the manner in which
the yarn is constructed.
Twist
Twist refers to how tightly
the yarns in each tuft are twisted together. It is
measured in terms of the number of twists per inch
of yarn (TPI).
The twist level
of a fibre significantly impacts how a carpet will
stand up to wear. Generally speaking, the tighter
the twist, the better the performance.
A tighter twist
level will generally produce a carpet with more consistency
in appearance and greater resistance to matting and
traffic marks (because the yarn is more likely to
bounce back to its original position after being
walked on). A carpet with a low twist level will
likely become unravelled with regular use and the
ends will fray over time.
Some lesser expensive olefin
berbers are made using a method called “Air Entanglement” (AE),
rather than the standard method of twisting the
yarn together. Air entanglement is a suitable method
to make berber carpets because of the added stability
created by tight loop construction. It is not suitable
for cut pile carpet.
Buyer’s Tip: Some carpet dealers
promote lower priced carpet that is made with high
pile height but “low” twist,
creating the appearance of a fuller yarn. Unfortunately,
the yarn will unravel, or “flower”, over time.
Gauge & Stitch
Rate
Gauge rate is the number of needles
per inch used to “tuft” the carpet. It is
a function of the sewing machine used to make the
carpet. Stitch rate refers to the speed at which
the carpet is fed through the sewing machine.
Pile
Height
Pile height refers to the height of the tufts
of yarn, measured from the backing to the top of
the tufts. Generally, carpet with tall pile height
is plusher, while carpet with low pile height is
firmer.
Face Weight
Face weight refers to the “amount” of
fibre in one square yard of carpet (ounces of fiber
per sq. yd.). The “weight” of the yarn has a significant
impact on both the cost and feel of the carpet,
but not necessarily on the carpet’s performance.
Density is a more critical measure of how a carpet
will perform.
Density
Density refers to the thickness of
the yarn and how close the tufts of yarn are spaced
together (which is a factor of the gauge and stitch
rate).
Carpets with higher density (i.e., the tufts
are closer together) will generally perform better.
You can measure density by pressing down on the
carpet pile with one finger and seeing how easy
or difficult it is to penetrate to the backing.
Better, denser carpets are more difficult to penetrate.
Buyer’s Tip: Beware of lower
priced carpets that feature relatively high weight
in ounces but low density. As stated above, density
is a more critical measure of how a carpet will
perform. Carpets with high pile height and low
density tend to matte and crush very easily, causing
the carpet to wear very quickly (with the exception
of Frieze, which has added stability due to high
twist levels).
Carpet
Backing
As stated above, yarn is stitched
through a backing material to create “tufts”.
The carpet backing holds the yarn in place, impacting
the carpet’s durability,
seam strength and overall appearance, including
pattern straightness and the ability to keep its
shape and not wrinkle.
Carpet backing is NOT all
the same. Standard backing is made from woven polypropylene.
Lower quality carpets use backing made from cheaper
chemicals that make the backing tough and brittle.
Over time, the backing loosens up, causing the
carpet to sag and wrinkle.
Premium backing made
from fibre offers many benefits over standard backing:
- Greater
comfort under foot - Not only is the carpet itself
more pliable, the backing is actually softer to
the touch, making it more comfortable to walk on.
- Stronger
and less visible seams - The carpet cuts very clean,
making for cleaner seams that are less vulnerable
to peaking.
- Improved dimensional stability
to prevent wrinkling and buckling – Carpets
with premium backing often come with “No Wrinkle” warranties.
- Improved
cleanability – Premium backing keeps
spills above the pad longer, so there is more time
to clean up the spill.
- Softer and more flexible
- Easier for installers to carry into the home
and less likely to damage walls and baseboards
during installation.
Buyer’s Tip: Beaulieu is
the only major carpet manufacturer that uses premium
backing made from fibre as the secondary backing.
Other mills apply premium backing on top of the
secondary backing (as stated above, typically made
from woven polypropylene), which defeats the purpose
of having premium backing – which
is Beaulieu is the only company that offers a No
Wrinkle warranty for carpets using its premium
backing.
Carpet Underlay
Carpet underlay is as important as
the carpet itself in terms of a carpet’s performance.
In
addition, not using underlay, or using underlay that does
not meet manufacturer specifications for the particular
carpet, can void product warranties.
Carpet underlay helps
increase comfort and maintain the carpet’s original
appearance by absorbing foot traffic. When you
walk on carpet, you put pressure on it. Carpet pad
helps to alleviate that pressure, which makes the
carpet feel softer, thicker and richer.
Carpet underlay
improves the efficiency of vacuuming. A quality
pad makes cleaning more efficient because it raises
carpet off the sub-floor and provides air space underneath,
allowing the carpet to “breathe.” When
you vacuum, that space allows more air to come
up through the carpet, picking up more dirt.
Selecting
the “correct” underlay (as specified by the
manufacturer) helps minimise matting and crushing,
as well as soiling and staining. A quality
pad can increase the useful life of carpet as much
as 50%. Pile crushing can make carpet “look” worn
out before the fibre is actually worn out. A quality
underlay helps decrease pile crushing, allowing the
carpet to maintain its pile height and stay looking
new much longer.
The latest advancements in carpet
underlays are stain and odour fighting capabilities. A special moisture barrier on the surface of premium
Pads incorporated during manufacture prevent spills or pet accidents from saturating
through or soaking into the sub-floor, causing
mold. This barrier gives the homeowner time to
blot up the spill and prevent it from wicking back
to the surface causing recurring stains.
Some premium underlays have a special enzyme that helps
eliminate offensive odours.
Underlay Construction
Most carpet underlay is made from
foam or rubber, with foam pad accounting for approximately
75% of the market.
Bonded polyurethane, referred to
as re-bond, is the most common form of foam pad.
It is formed by combining chopped and shredded pieces
of recycled foam, in different sizes and usually
different colours, into one solid piece. The re-bonded
foam that is produced is itself recyclable.
Premium
re-bond pad features:
- Heavier weight (typically
8 lbs vs. 6 lbs), compacted to make smaller air
pockets, creating a denser, firmer pad that will
perform better;
- Moisture barrier to prevent spills
or pet accidents from saturating the pad; and
- Anti-microbial
enzymes to help break down odours.
Product warranties
typically specify the minimum type and grade of
underlay to be used with a specific carpet. The “grade” of
underlay is determined primarily by weight and thickness.
Note: A thinner
underlay is used for Berber carpets because a thicker,
less dense pad would produce too much “give”,
pulling on the seams.
Buyer’s Tip: Many contractors
lower the cost of new carpet by reusing the existing
underlay or using a less expensive underlay that does not
meet manufacturer specifications for thickness
and weight. In addition to causing wrinkling and
buckling and separation of carpet seams, reusing
the existing underlay or using a non-specified underlay will
likely void the product warranty.
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CARPET INSTALLATION
Carpet installation consists
of:
- Removing existing flooring;
- Installing a
Carpet Underlay; and
- Installing the new Carpet.
Removing Existing Flooring
The first step
in installing carpet is removing the existing flooring
(typically carpet) and inspecting the tack strip.
Generally, the existing tack strip can be reused,
provided that it is fastened securely around the
perimeter of the room where the carpet will be installed and isn't damaged.
However, some portions of the tack strip may be rotted
(such as around a patio door) and will need to be
replaced by the installer.
Note: Carpet can be installed
over an existing wood or vinyl floor (in which case,
there is no need to remove the existing flooring).
Under such circumstances (or when carpet is installed
over concrete), the installer will install new tack
strips where necessary.
Installing the Carpet Underlay
The carpet underlay is
laid on the floor, trimmed and securely fastened
to the sub-floor with staples (on a wood sub-floor)
or glue (on concrete).
Installing the Carpet
The carpet roll is cut
to the size of the room and rolled out. The carpet
must be properly stretched, using a power stretcher,
and firmly hooked onto the tackstrip.
The use of a
power stretcher is critical. A power stretcher
uses a lever system to multiply the installer’s
applied stretching force. It creates tension across
the entire length of the carpet, which helps to
avoid wrinkling and buckling.
Many installers won’t
invest in a power stretcher, choosing to use less
expensive devices, such as a knee-kicker. A knee-kicker
can damage the carpet or sub-floor and may provide
an inadequate amount of stretch, resulting in wrinkling
or buckling over time. Knee-kickers should only
be used for positioning and hooking the carpet
onto the tackstrip (although they can be used to
install carpet on stairs).
The installation is
finished along the wall and the carpet is trimmed,
leaving sufficient material so that it can be tucked
under the skirting. Minor scratching of
skirtings and mouldings may be unavoidable during
the fitting process.
Seams
If the width of the room is greater
than the width of the roll of carpet, it may be necessary
to seam together multiple pieces of carpet to complete
the installation.
Seam placement is very important.
The general rule for seams are:
- No more than
three seams in a single room;
- No seams
perpendicular to a doorway or opening;
- Seams
should run “with” natural light from a
window (not “through” it);
- Seams should be located
under furniture, if possible; and
- Seams should
not be located in high traffic areas.
Buyer’s Tip:
Seams are never invisible. So while adding seams
may cut down on waste, reducing the amount of material
required for the job, it can also negatively impact
how the carpet will look. Make sure you review
seam placement BEFORE the installation. Too many
installers will try to add seams without telling
you (in order to reduce their cost of material).
To create a proper seam, the edges of the carpet are
trimmed leaving a smooth seam without gaps or overlaps.
This is particularly important with Saxony, Berber
or Patterned carpet where the seam may be more noticeable.
The
trimmed edges of certain carpets such as loop piled carpets must be sealed with an appropriate
seam sealer to prevent the edges from fraying. Unfortunately, many installers skip this step in order to save costs.
Seaming tape (referred to as
hot-melt tape) is placed under the carpet and a heating
tool, similar to an iron, is used to fuse the two
pieces of carpet together, with the seaming tape
acting as the adhesive.
Glue-Down Method
Carpet can also be installed
using the glue-down method, in which the carpet is
glued directly to the floor (usually with no underlay underneath).
Stretching-in a carpet over underlay
is “preferred” to
the glue-down method because:
- Carpet is more
comfortable underfoot;
- Extends the carpet life;
- Absorbs sound, increasing
the insulation effect of the carpet;
- Minimizes
matting and pile crushing;
- Improves the efficiency
of vacuuming the carpet;
- Allows better matching
of patterned carpets; and
- Easier to remove
the carpet for future installations.
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Saxony is produced
by cutting the tufts of yarn to a smooth, uniform
height with consistent colour, creating a relatively
formal look.
Textured carpet also offers a level finish,
but the yarns have more twist than Saxony, causing
the tufts to bend over just slightly, producing
a more casual style.
The high twist level of Frieze
increases the carpet’s
durability because the yarn:
Level Loop carpet has
looped tufts that are all the same height. This makes
the carpet easier to clean because soil doesn’t penetrate
deep into the carpet. Loops are typically short and
densely situated, making the carpet crush resistant.
Consequently, level loop carpets are popular for
high traffic areas in the home, such as family rooms,
stairways or hallways.
Multi-level Loop has loops
at two or more different heights. The different heights
can be arranged to create an array of patterns and
textures providing visual interest, such as straight
rows, geometric patterns or random textures. Adding
a touch of colour adds dimension to the design.