For Best Results!
Subfloor Preparation: Before you start, the subfloor must be level, sound, dry and clean. The temperature must be a least 18°C. The relative air humidity must lie between 30 and 60 per cent before, during and after installation – use a hygrometer to check this. If the relative air humidity is lower or higher the right climate should be achieved by humidifying or dehumidifying. This also goes for the room in which you store the packages. The packages must not be opened until immediately before installation. Floor heating: Floor heating systems must be a water-borne or self-limiting electrical heating system that provides an even heat over the whole area of the floor. The surface temperature of the installed floor must not exceed 27°C. Floor heating is an option for all thicknesses of wooden flooring. Floor heating may cause movement and gaps in the floor. Beech and maple move more than other species and are not recommended. When installing over a floor heating system the boards must always be installed along the length of the room and there must be an expansion gap at thresholds, i.e. no contact is allowed between boards in separate rooms. Larger floors must be installed with expansion gaps. Ask your dealer for advice. Installation: 1. Install Foam/Rubber Underlayment: Cover subfloor with foam/rubber underlayment. Do not overlap sheets. If subfloor is concrete, you should ideally, cover the whole area with Pvc sheeting, or similar, then tape the seams with 2-inch wide tape. For all other subfloors, do not tape seams. 2. Install First Row: Inspect each piece prior to installation for damaged boards. Lay first row of boards with groove side facing the wall. If the starting wall is crooked, trace the contour of the wall on the first row of planks and trim as needed. Saw off the bottom part of the groove in the first row if starting with a full board. Put spacers around the entire perimeter of the room to maintain 1/4" expansion zone. Lay pieces from left to right. Slide each to the left and lock short end into place. Gently use tapping block to tap short ends of boards together. When measuring the last piece in the row, subtract 1/4" from end of board to maintain expansion zone. Cut decorative side up if using hand saw or decorative side down if using power saw to minimize chipping. When you are happy that this first row is square, dismantle and glue together,
wiping away excess glue with a clean damp cloth. Use a pull bar to get the last piece into place. If the cut-off piece from the first row is 12" or longer, use it to start the
second row. If it is less than 12", cut a full board in half and use that. 3. Install Remaining Rows: Continue laying boards, one row at a time and staggering the end joints. Run a bead of glue along the TOP of the tongue, not into the groove,
as excess glue will force the boards apart! Install each subsequent piece by inserting long end at an angle to the piece
already laid. With lightly applied pressure, push down on the board until it "locks" into place. Secure long ends of the board first, then slide board to the left to lock short end into place. Use a pull bar and tapping block when necessary to ensure joints are tight.
(Place the solid side of tapping block against tongue of boards and tap with hammer on groove side of tapping block.) Then wipe away excess glue. Follow the order described above to continue laying the pieces and locking them
together. Tap gently into place with tapping block.4. Install Mouldings and Transition Strips: Remove spacers and install finish mouldings. Attach mouldings and transition strips with nails, screws or construction adhesive. Predrill mouldings and transition strips prior to nailing or screwing. Never fasten the transition pieces or mouldings to the laminate flooring itself,
this will cause the floor to 'lock' against the wall, resulting in a tightening of the whole area, and always maintain 1/4" expansion zone.
Fit pipe collars where necessary. Please Do... • Use quality fibre mats at entrances to minimise dirt and grit being brought in from outside. (Warning: Avoid rubber-backed mats as some types can cause permanent floor discolouration.) • Use protective pads under furniture legs to prevent fine scratches. • Use load-bearing castors to prevent indentation from heavy items of furniture. • Mop up spillages as soon as possible to prevent spots becoming stains. Use of a proprietary floor protector should ensure better protection from most substances Please Do not... • Slide or drag appliances or furniture across the floor. • Allow cigarettes or other hot items to come into contact with the floor, as they can cause permanent damage. • Apply thick coatings of proprietary floor protector. Two thin coats is sufficient. • Some cleaning products contain agents that can damage the floor. Please test! • Allow silicone-based products such as furniture polish or glass cleaner to come into contact with the floor. These can make the floor very slippery. • Allow rubber backed mats or rubber footed furniture to come into contact with the floor. Permanent discolouration may occur.